 |
| Illustration by Ai |
Ronggeng Karawang Dance Inspires AI-Assisted Contemporary Fashion Design
A 2026 study by Retno Andri Pramudyarini, I Gede Mugi Raharja, Nyoman Dewi Pebryani, and Tjok Istri Ratna C.S from ISI Bali reveals how traditional Indonesian dance movements can be transformed into contemporary fashion through semiotics and artificial intelligence. Published in 2026 in Jurnal Multidisiplin Madani (MUDIMA), the research explored the “mencuk” movement from the traditional Ronggeng Karawang dance of West Java and translated its symbolism into modern “sexy alluring” fashion designs using AI-based virtual try-on technologies. The findings highlight how Indonesian cultural heritage can be preserved and modernized simultaneously within the global creative industry.
The study demonstrates that traditional dance movements contain visual narratives and philosophical meanings that can be systematically converted into wearable fashion concepts. Researchers argue that the approach offers a new model for preserving intangible cultural heritage while creating globally competitive contemporary designs.
Traditional Dance Meets Contemporary Fashion
The Ronggeng Karawang dance is one of West Java’s traditional performance arts, historically associated with social interaction, femininity, rhythm, and local identity. In the study, researchers focused on the “mencuk” movement, a dynamic gesture inspired by martial arts movements, body balance, and spontaneous expression.
The researchers explained that contemporary fashion increasingly draws inspiration from cultural identity rather than purely commercial trends. Global fashion industries are now exploring local heritage as a source of originality, authenticity, and storytelling.
According to the paper, fashion today functions not only as clothing but also as a medium for communicating identity, history, and cultural meaning.
The study also addresses growing international interest in combining fashion design with digital technology, especially AI-assisted visualization systems that accelerate design experimentation.
Researchers Conducted Cultural and Visual Analysis
The research used a qualitative descriptive approach combined with Research and Development (R&D) methods. Researchers collected data through:
- direct observation of Ronggeng Karawang performances
- interviews with dancers and cultural practitioners
- visual documentation
- literature studies on fashion and semiotics
One key informant was cultural figure Haji Wahab from Tempura Village in Karawang Regency, who explained the historical role of the mencuk movement in local performance traditions.
The team analyzed the dance using the semiotic theory of Roland Barthes, focusing on three layers of meaning:
- denotation
- connotation
- myth
Researchers then translated these symbolic meanings into contemporary fashion design elements using the Functional, Expressive, and Aesthetic (FEA) design framework developed by Susan Lamb and Mary Kallal.
Three Core Meanings Emerged From the Mencuk Movement
The study identified three major philosophical meanings embedded in the Ronggeng Karawang mencuk movement:
1. Power
The movement symbolizes:
- courage
- energy
- body control
- mastery of space
Researchers described the gestures as strong, assertive, and rhythmically aggressive while remaining balanced.
This meaning was translated into fashion using:
- H-line silhouettes
- diagonal asymmetrical cuts
- structured jacquard and taffeta fabrics
- macramé textures
- red color palettes symbolizing energy and life force
2. Beauty
The second meaning centered on:
- gracefulness
- sensuality
- fluid body movement
- elegance
Design elements inspired by this interpretation included:
- body-fit silhouettes
- lace and organza fabrics
- transparent layering
- floral rose motifs
- black and red color combinations
Researchers said the flowing lines reflected the softness and flexibility of Sundanese women’s dance movements.
3. Fertility
The final symbolic meaning represented:
- creativity
- life force
- natural harmony
- feminine dynamism
This theme inspired:
- fit-and-flare silhouettes
- circular drapery
- layered satin and tulle fabrics
- natural color palettes
- abstract movement-inspired motifs
The researchers linked these visual forms to agricultural symbolism in Karawang, widely known as one of Indonesia’s major rice-producing regions.
AI Tools Accelerated the Fashion Design Process
One of the study’s most innovative aspects was its use of AI-based virtual try-on systems.
Researchers employed technologies such as:
- VITON-HD
- LaDI-VTON
- TryOnDiffusion
These AI systems allowed the team to simulate clothing designs digitally before physical production.
The tools helped researchers test:
- silhouette proportions
- drapery movement
- fabric textures
- visual rhythm
- color combinations
The study explains that AI-supported visualization significantly reduced the time required for fashion experimentation while preserving cultural references and design accuracy.
According to Retno Andri Pramudyarini and colleagues from ISI Bali, AI technology can support “rapid yet culturally sensitive design iteration” without replacing traditional craftsmanship.
Researchers emphasized that AI-based virtual try-on systems cannot fully replace physical garment testing but are highly effective for concept development and visual prototyping.
Fashion Was Designed to Remain Ethical and Culturally Sensitive
The study also addressed the concept of “sexy alluring” fashion, which can often become controversial when linked to traditional culture.
Researchers clarified that the term in this project referred to stage elegance, body movement, and fabric flow rather than visual exploitation.
The designs emphasized:
- graceful movement
- formal integrity
- cultural symbolism
- feminine confidence
The study argues that contemporary reinterpretation of traditional dance should maintain ethical sensitivity and public acceptance within Indonesian cultural contexts.
Research Offers a New Model for Cultural Fashion Innovation
The researchers believe the study contributes to broader discussions about preserving intangible cultural heritage through modern design practices.
The project presents a replicable framework for transforming traditional performing arts into contemporary fashion products while maintaining cultural meaning.
The authors suggest the same model could later be applied to other Indonesian dances, including:
- Legong from Bali
- Bedhaya from Java
- Saman from Aceh
The study also highlights growing opportunities for Indonesia’s creative economy, especially in fashion sectors combining local identity with emerging technologies.
Researchers argue that culturally rooted fashion innovation may strengthen Indonesia’s global creative competitiveness while supporting heritage preservation.
Author Profiles
Retno Andri Pramudyarini
Retno Andri Pramudyarini is a researcher affiliated with ISI Bali. Her expertise includes fashion semiotics, cultural heritage design, and AI-assisted fashion development.
I Gede Mugi Raharja
I Gede Mugi Raharja is an academic at ISI Bali specializing in performing arts, cultural studies, and creative innovation.
Nyoman Dewi Pebryani
Nyoman Dewi Pebryani researches contemporary fashion aesthetics, textile design, and visual communication at ISI Bali.
Tjok Istri Ratna C.S
Tjok Istri Ratna C.S is an arts researcher at ISI Bali whose work focuses on Indonesian traditional arts and creative cultural adaptation.
0 Komentar